Kokonukos is a mountain range with few trails and few people have summited its highest peaks. Here, the chronicling of how we follow an aging kokonukos guide into the clouds,across a mossy carpet, to the top of the range’s highest volcano, Pan de Azúcar.
No document could do his life justice. There is so much about Niels that I could never know or see, and now never will.
Once up on a time, Chengue exemplified the simple, campesino life. Nearly 20 years after paramilitaries killed 27 people in a brutal massacre, the village is mostly empty and the victims are still waiting for compensation.
Today, you hear more about Colombia’s páramos. The altitude and exposure to extreme swings in temperature and weather make páramos something like enormous islands, floating among seas of tropical jungles. Survival under extreme conditions have resulted in a population of plants finely tuned to shielding high levels of UV rays, trapping and managing water, resisting wind and freezing temperatures.
The FARC have since left Jambaló and the country’s recent ceasefire has brought peace, but the conflict has continually held Jambaló back in rural development: only five of its 35 villages (veredas) have access to potable water, there is but one paved road in the entire municipality, and over 1,000 families still lack access to fertile crop-growing land.
The bees try really hard to protect their hive and their honey, and maybe that is part of why Osvaldo identifies the activity as theft. For him, it would be the same with cows, sheep, silk worms or oysters. We are the species specialized in taking. Over a lifetime, we take much more than we give, and though we are capable of giving, we rarely do.
My brother Josh and I wrote down a few key memories meant to highlight the many facets of our late brother Pat’s personality, the way he lived life and is compassion for all living creatures. This is a sample of what we came up with. Enjoy and reach out to your loved ones today. Life is fleeting, you won’t regret it.
Sin casa de nuevo, estábamos en un ferry cruzando el estrecho de Gibraltar. 10 kilómetros de océano, separando el norte del sur. Nuestro camino por Etiopía, nos trajo nuestra primera hija, y cuando tomamos el vuelo de salida nos metimos en una odisea que no sabíamos que terminaría con otra hija nacida en otro país.
The story of the long, convoluted journey ending with the birth of our second daughter.
Kgale Hill, Gaborone’s most famous hill, offers granite cracks, face and friction climbs on a large variety of textures and rock for such a small area. The word Kgale means ‘a long time ago’ and the large quantity of rock polished by generations of baboons gives you an idea of just how long ago Kgale goes.
How an international donor has given the sport of rock climbing a chance to prove itself as a tool for community development high in the craggy mountains of Lebanon
I like Lebanon, emerging from the sectarian mess is a picturesque landscape that combines the inviting Mediterranean with what can only be called Levantine Alpine, snowy peaks, limestone walls and Cedar forests. As a tourist destination, Lebanon stands alone in the region providing even the most experienced traveler a glimpse of something totally unique, where culture, history and geography blend a fascinating fabric of existence.
I can still remember leaving the trail. It was a worn, dusty path that we had followed from a small lake tucked back in the evergreen forest of the Southern Andes. Ahead of me, an austere landscape of volcanic upheaval, a sea of basalt stacked against a steep shoulder of Volcano Casablanca. The skies were as clear as my 26-year-old mind, and although we couldn’t see the top of the volcano, its geographic position was predictable if not downright obvious. If this is the volcano, all paths lead to the crater, or so went the logic in my head.
Holed up in a traditional dance club, Garrett was immersed in Ethiopian dancing, shaking his shoulders and jumping up and down, the energy levels of this 63 year old climber defied nature. The next day, Garrett flew solo to Namibia, roped a random German guy into helping with belays, made the long trip out to the Spitzkoppe and put up a route. How many sexagenarians are doing this with their time, resources and abilities? Nobody I know is like James Garrett.
Instead of the basic ‘grocery’ measuring out droplets of local gin and Georgis beers, they now dub themselves ‘liquor bars’ or ‘sexy liquor bars’ and offer exotic mixed drinks like Mojitos, Sex on the Beech, and Ladis Kiler. The people who frequent Bole have a richer taste for the good life, and the good life is an intricate cocktail.
By 10:30am, the sound of the funeral was in full swing wailing with the loud and jarring traditional Bassa music, West African bible pop music and Rihanna. My wife was losing her mind. Only the baby could make any sense of the noise, moving back and forth to the music with a smile.
By awarding records in the interest of profit, Guinness treats talent and people as indispensable commodities. They’ve sacrificed their history of spotlighting the incredible and inspiration and have diluted it with corporate values and the capitalistic obsession for money. A sad truth in a changing world where nothing is sacred.
After Liberia’s disarmament, 18,000 guns were turned to weapon scrap. This is how one artist made weapon scrap steel a medium of beauty and protest.
At the top of the 20m routes were the remnants of the group’s bolts, obliterated into a flat strips of metal pegged to the rock. Each one reminded me of the penny smashing machine, and I half hoped to find shapes of Ethiopia’s national monuments etched into the steel. Most likely the children of the village smashed the anchors with rocks. Owning a piece of metal in a landscape so overwhelmed with rock was seductive to a mischievous ten year old. Some hangers were completely missing, others intact hidden from the children’s view.
As the discussion of dogs in public and offended Muslims heats up in Europe, Mino the dog takes his species straight to the source. One dog’s experience riding the bus in Ethiopia.
There would still be plenty of coconuts, pineapples and fish (though not the frozen type). There would be goat soup, plenty of hot peppers and some local chicken for flavoring. There would still be dancing and singing, lots of smiles, there’d be motorbikes and taxis, but no buses. There’d be a lot of flat tires, broken down vehicles, and closed up mechanics. There’d still be church sermons on shadowy pulpits, Sunday dress, shiny leather shoes and colorful fabric. There would still be weaves and sturdy women tapping their hairdos to relieve the itch, but there’d be no clippers for men’s haircuts. Monrovia would become a city without haircuts.
When I moved to Liberia I decided I should probably get one. After all, they are buried all over the jungle if you can get there and you know where to look. My friend Alex knew where to look, and I wanted to find one.
From her conception to birth, 9 months in 9 paragraphs tells the emotional story of our international pregnancy that spans three countries, a wedding, moving house to West Africa and a dog who pissed on the sofa before anybody knew about the pregnancy.
I spent the better part of three years traveling around the country, roping up with phenomenal climbers and searching for the least visited mountain ranges and unclimbed towers. However, I didn’t realize that in my own backyard—right outside of the capital Addis Ababa—I would find and establish Ethiopia’s first complete sport climbing crag.
Ten years, six continents, 100 countries, seven bicycles, 78 flat tires and 10,200 kilometers later Furtemba’s ride around the world is in full swing and will continue until 2020 when he will have pedaled through 151 countries on this massive planet. In this interview, learn what motivates the Sherpa to keep pushing the pedals.
All around me raindrops, darkness and frogs. Can you think of any better way to spend the rainy season in Liberia?
Want to start an organic farm in a post-conflict Africa? Then you may want to learn the story of William Tolbert, Liberia’s first organic farmer.
Here’s my first impression of arriving in Liberia, including observations of Monrovia’s Temple of Grayskull, pricey salads, and Lebanese who love Bon Jovi.
Life is not always fair and the justice system is not user friendly, especially in the Ethiopian context. A week of mental anguish slowly turns into an unforgettable experience for Luke. All because of one teenager’s decision to cross the road at the wrong time.
What happens when a town becomes a city? And the local garbage heap sustains an array of people and animals? The answer lies in Dessie’s Waste Management solutions.
Dogs sense change. I get anxious when I see the crate move from the hallway to the patio, back to the hallway and then to the living room. I have bouts of shaking when the humans start acting like a surprise party is being planned, but nobody is willing to talk about it. We sense […]
Tameru Zegeye, the Ethiopian Miracle, tells in his own words the challenges of being born disabled in rural Ethiopia and the struggle to triumph.
Do you know about development in Somaliland? These types of projects will surprise you and question how to push human progress in a country like Somaliland.
I stepped through puddles of blood and gastric juices. Hundreds of bulls and heifers dotted the landscape. The sap of life leaked from their orifices and some still twitched with hopelessness. I watched these humans wrestle a heifer to the ground, battling with her until achieving total submission.
The main road was alive with farmers and horse carts. He saw mosques and churches facing each other from opposite sides of the road. And when the bus passed through a village, the radio crackled for an instant and the voice of a great Ethiopian singer crooned with recklessness. He wondered if he would ever find his way back home.
When a certain faith manages to strip its believers of their last grain of compassion, it strips them of their spirituality as well.
-Wafa Sultan, Syrian psychiatrist
The Koraro towers rise and fall like pistons of a car engine and pose like a lineup of disfigured criminals. It’s hot, we see few climbable cracks, a series of bolts aiding halfway up the middle tower and He-Man chooses a chimney on the east face of the largest tower. Nobody knows where the chimney will lead, but a deep layer of bird shit tells us that if you are squeezed out of a vulture’s ass, you will probably hit the ground.
Climbing in Oman? This adventure will take you to three crags on a quest to reach the French Pillar on Jebel Misht, the highest free standing wall in Arabia.
Until now, only the monks and priests knew the secrets of the Adwa Mountains, now it’s up to the climbers to keep the secrets safe.
“When you talk about gay rights in Africa, there’s nothing to say. There are none. We talk about the gay situation in Africa. and the situation is that we don’t feel very secure.”
Some will remember Nancy most for her collection of necklaces and rings. Others will catch a ride with Abel the taxi driver in Addis Ababa, and her name will come up. Many will remember Nancy as the woman who bought too many clay chickens at the NGO Bazaar. I will remember her as a friend, a mother, a woman who constantly reminded me to get a haircut, to never turn down an invitation and to stay past the bad parts, because it always gets better.
Watchyman kept my street clear of strife
Until he migrated North to start a new life
Crossing the border
He could finally afford her
When he traded his Dolphins coat for a Bolivian wife
Zumra Nuru realized the disproportion of duties between his mother and father when he was four years old. A visionary, he often asked his parents why when his father’s work finished, his mother continued to work? Were they not a family?
Why everyone is talking about the Utopian Ethiopian community Awra Amba? Here their leader gives an honest interview about gender equality, organized religion and dogs.
Three eclectic personalities are intertwined in this tale of a very unlikely Tuesday afternoon in Ethiopia. If you have lived in Addis Ababa, stories like this probably come as no surprise.
Has escalado en Riglos, España? Has conocido a escaladores como este personaje Animal? Y has sobrevivido? Estos son las preguntas que deberias hacerte.
“Our cultures are very different. The Europeans always want to see the action when they come to Christmas. And yet thousands of pilgrims who have walked hundreds of kilometers through the mountains just want to be here. They just want to be in Lalibela, they don’t want to see the priests, many don’t feel like they could obtain such a luxury.”
Have you ever wondered what a dog is thinking? Mino gives his fans some canine wisdom about running the Great Ethiopian Run 10K in Addis Ababa.
After another 8 feet, I reached the next chamber where Samy was wedged between the walls, smiling. I could no longer see the entrance to the cave and looking above resembled a narrow mouth of crooked teeth leading to an ever tighter esophagus, suffocating and desperate. I put my head into high gear, arm wrestling thoughts of claustrophobia. Thoughts are the catalyst for disasters in these types of situations, and steady breathing and silence are like medicine.
What are all the Ethiopian kids screaming about on August 13th? Singing, burning small fires, beating the ground with sticks and asking for money? Buhe!
If you are willing to hike an extra 20-30 minutes through the snow along rocky ridges, you’ll probably be the only person on the mountain. If you’re willing to hike an extra one or two hours, you will definitely be alone. How far will you go to Ski Backcountry?
Once upon a time in the city of Harar, a goat gave birth to a man. The news of the half-goat-half-man traveled quickly through the tangled alleys of the old city center, the Jugal. These walls were erected by a Harari sultan to protect the city from invaders, and now the news of the birth of this crossbred wonder was trapped inside, like a ball in a pinball machine.
Saturday afternoons present a perfect opportunity to chew chat. And when the World Cup is beamed to every television in Africa, many East Africans see few options outweighing a good chat session and fútbol.
I wondered if it occurred to the driver that the dog had called out the prophet, and that dogs can’t be fooled by prophets and their second-rate miracles.
Trekking along the Rio Grande in Northern Chile’s Atacama Desert is akin to taking a peek at a cross section of the area’s history, serving up pre-Colombian rock art, volcanoes thought sacred by the Incans and Spanish colonial villages with adobe churches.
Javier was the last of a special breed of Patagón. He was as much a cowboy as a tour guide, he was as much a tropero, (local parlance for rancher) as he was a marketing director. And finally he was a pioneer, not in the “covered wagon” sense, but in the “break ground, sink-your-roots homesteader” sense.
Josh Lowry has gone down nearly every significant river in Chile and Argentina on his kayak and rafts. Now the Kayaking Legend has turned his efforts towards saving the pristine Puelo River which slices through the Patagonia, reaching the Pacific Ocean. I spent a week with the captain himself and you’ll see why I’d do it again.
Have you see the Lonely Planet guidebook for Colombia lately? For a country twice the size of Texas, the two hundred and something pages do not begin to represent the true tourist potential of this country. Still considered one of twenty most dangerous places in the world, the coverage given to Colombia by the ubiquitous […]
Se dice ‘pituto’ en la jerga chilena. Y todos mis amigos me dijeron que con un pituto no había por qué preocuparme, ni por la entrevista, ni por romperme la cabeza. El pituto me iba resolver la vida, o al menos darme un trabajo.
Imagine holding onto the side of a building fifteen floors up and knowing that any slip will send you plummeting to the sidewalk below. Now replace the sidewalk with deep canyon and the building with a limestone cliff and you will imagine exactly what Mexican climber Alejandro Fuentes faced at mid-morning on July 10, 2006 […]
I can’t see the bottom of the black hole called the “Confidence Jump”, but I know if I throw myself into the black abyss I might come out on the other side. At least that’s what Campana, my guide, tells me. After all, he brought me to this juncture where a beautifully sculpted limestone slot […]
Until recently, I lived in San Antonio, and whenever I looked out my window I saw one of two things: buildings or live oak. And neither is very conducive to surfing. When I wanted to learn to surf, I instantly realized that I live in the wrong place, two hundred miles from any ocean and more […]
Tuve que continuar dos millas más por la carretera nacional I-40 antes de poder dar la vuelta hacia atrás. A la salida Wagon Wheel, regresé al café que había visto ubicado a lado de la carretera. Creía que era el pueblucho Cline’s Corner, donde el 285 se cruce con esta carretera I-40. Rápidamente, me di […]